Discovering the Northumberland 250
As seen in ‘This is Northumberland’ 2022
Seeking adventure, overland enthusiasts 'Somewhere Wilder' were one the first to test-drive Northumberland's all new adventure driving route. Join Frida Berg, Leo Kopferschmitt, and their two dogs Henry and Wally on their 250-mile journey across the land of dark skies, rolling hills and remarkable coastline.
Words and photography by Somewhere Wilder
Northumberland is a destination we have continuously overlooked, often in favour of Cornwall, the Lake District, or Scotland’s highlands and islands. For us, the north east of England was habitually a place we would drive through, rather than to; a fuel stop, or a quick stretch of the legs. On our 250-mile journey through these frequently disregarded lands, we soon came to realise that Northumberland must be Britain’s best kept secret. The area is shrouded in fascinating history, deep-rooted culture, and breathtakingly beautiful scenery. Every local to whom we spoke was warm and welcoming, and every fellow traveller we encountered along the way affirmed our pressing deliberations... “How has it taken us so long to discover this place?!”
We joined the Northumberland 250 route at its most southerly point near Allenheads and followed the unmarked road across rolling moorland to the medieval village of Blanchland.
Nestled between broadleaved woodland and rugged fells, it was the perfect spot to fuel up on coffee and ice cream before making tracks toward an afternoon of splashing around in nearby Derwent Reservoir.
Continuing north past the old roman settlement of Corbridge, we made course towards Rothbury and the alluring Simonside Hills. It had been a warm, cloudless day and we were excited by the prospect of watching the sun slip beneath the horizon. Arriving at Simonside, shadows lengthening, we quickly strapped on our hiking boots and clambered to the top of Simonside Ridge. At the summit we were greeted by astonishing views in all directions, an unforgettable panorama stretching as far as the eye can see. We couldn’t believe our luck; we had the who place to ourselves. We wondered, “where is everyone? Do they not know what they’re missing?”.
Following a memorable dinner seemingly on top of the world, we spent the night tucked away in the forest below and headed out early to stock up on supplies for another adventure-filled day.
Next on our list was the tumbling shoot of Linhope Spout, a secluded waterfall hidden away in the hills, and surely the most picturesque picnic spot in the whole of the United Kingdom! From here we made course towards the Coast where arguably England’s best fish and chips were devoured within minutes in the shoreline town of Seahouses. The Northumberland 250 route then took us past the brooding Bamburgh Castle and towards the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. We’d heard amazing things about the tidal island and were desperate to make the 3-mile journey across the causeway. Frustratingly, our timing left much to be desired. The unfavourable tides meant the causeway would be impassable by car for the remainder of the day. Behind the wheel of a Land Rover, we remained curious. But upon speaking to locals about the dangers of crossing outside of the safe times, we quicky abandoned any notion of risking it. Heeding resident advice, we waved goodbye to the island, opting not to flood our Landy’s notoriously undependable engine.
On our journey into the Borderlands, we passed through the Cheviot Hills and into the Scottish Borders, winding our way between farmland, moors, and crags. Despite it being a gloriously sunny day, there wasn’t a single other motorist sharing the road. It was as if we were driving through a land forgotten. Later, we turned off the tarmac and onto the gravel track of the 12-mile-long Kielder Forest Drive, which turned out to be one of our most memorable experiences along the Northumberland 250 route. After rumbling our way through the wild forest landscapes, trying to spot red squirrels and other native wildlife, we ended our day at the Anglers Arms to meet new friends and share stories of our trip so far. Our last stop of the trip was at the iconic Sycamore Gap, one of the most photographed trees in the world. That being said, for Northumberland’s most iconic sight, only a handful of others joined us to marvel at the perfectly positioned tree, burrowed in a dramatic dip in Hadrian’s Wall.
After completing the Northumberland 250 route in its entirety, we finally figured out the answer to our insistent question - it’s not that people don’t want to visit this stunning corner of England, it’s simply not enough people know it exists! Everyone who visits Northumberland evidently wants to keep the well-kept secret to themselves!
We still can’t believe this was our first trip to Northumberland. But one thing we know for sure, we can’t wait to return.
